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In our home we love to use barn doors as space savers and to help the space flow better. The folks that built our home went a little door crazy and pocket doors were just way too out of the budget. You can check out all the crazy door situation here from our House Tour right when we moved in!

This DIY geometric barn door was definitely not what I had intended to do, but I decided to let my creativity flow. Originally, the plan was to make the same door I made for Liv’s Nursery.

This was a “fix it project”, to fix the barn door I hung in the guest room. If you follow along on instagram, you’d see that I tried to repurpose a 1920s door. You’d also see that it didn’t work out too great either.

How to build a DIY Geometric Barn Door

Building a barn door is super easy and is a great way to liven up any entryway! This DIY geometric barn door was a great piece to add to the entry of our master bathroom we just remodeled. Now who’s ready to get those creative juices flowing’ and cut a million mitered cuts!!

Shopping List, Supplies, and Costs for this project are all at the bottom of this post.

Step 1: Find your Inspiration

Pinterest is one of the most amazing places to find inspiration for DIY projects. I stumbled upon this amazing wooden geometric art from All the Bells Whistles and I knew I wanted to use this as inspiration for our barn door.

Step 2: Define your door base

For our door base we used a primed white smooth flush hardboard door slab, in simple terms – a plain inexpensive door. Make sure if you decide to go this route you get a door that doesn’t have visible wood grain or any pre-drilled door handle holes. You can also use plywood or MDF board if you want the door to be thinner.

Step 3: Extend door for Barn Door Length

Standard doors are sized to fit the doorway, so you have to extend a standard door so it covers the doorway on all sides. I extended the door after the fact and I recommend extending the door before you attach geometric door pieces.

Cut your 1×6 board to door length twice, you will stack the boards on top of each other to get the correct width of the plain door slab.

Use a kreg jig and clamps to attach the 1×6 board the the bottom of the door. I made 5 pocket holes and attached the top board first.

Stack the second 1×6 under the first 1×6 with wood glue and clamps. Use a brad nailer to secure the two 1×6 together.

Step 4: Drift your Geometric Design

I only had so many scrap pieces of wood and I didn’t want it to be completely filled so I left large gaps and space between each 1×2. The easiest way to double check your mitered cuts is to mark where your 1×2 meets with a pencil.

All the door slats are individually measured and cut at either 40-degree or 45-degree angles. I highly recommend drifting 1×2’s before making miter cuts. Not all of my cuts were exactly the same and neither was the slat spacing. That’s what I get for letting the creative juices flow for this project! Just remember y’all, this isn’t a hard project it’s just very tedious!

Step 6: Attach drift pieces

Attach your drift pieces with wood glue and a brad nailer, make sure not to use a ton of wood glue. The more wood glue you use the more the pieces will shift while drying.

A thin line or a squiggly line of glue will do!

I didn’t wait for each piece to full dry incase I needed to shift any of the pieces a little.

Step 7: Fill gaps and Nail holes

Some of the gaps between geometric pieces were larger than others so I did 3 applications of wood filler. I’d let the wood filler dry overnight, sand once it was dried and reapply heavily each time. You don’t need 3 applications if your mitered cuts are more precise!

Step 8: Prep for Paint

Wipe down the entire door with a damp cloth to remove any excess dust from sanding. If there is any dust on the door the paint will not adhere properly. We used the Wagner Spary Tech – Spray Shelter to make sure there weren’t any particles getting stuck in the paint. It also help to prevent overspray on any surrounding objects! I sprayed this door in our driveway between two cars and there wasn’t any site of excess paint.

Step 9: Using your paint sprayer

To spray the geometric barn door I used the Wagner Spray Tech Flexio 3000. I used the larger nozzle called the iSpray nozzle which is designed to spray un-thinned materials, including latex paint! Uhm, YES PLEASE.

We used Laurel Garland by BEHR Paint in a Paint/Primer Satin Finish.

Before now, I have never used a paint sprayer before that doesn’t require you to thin your paint, which is amazing. The whole door was sprayed in 10 minutes with 1 QT of paint. How awesome is that?!

TIP: Pour less than what you think you’ll need into the paint sprayer cup, you’ll waste less paint!

Use the sprayer in a long sweeping motion top to bottom spraying off the door on each end. After the first coat, I went back over the whole door a second time.

TIP: Be sure to use a damp paper towel to wipe off your nozzle as the paint will start to dry and clump. If you notice the sprayer starting to spray like a splatter you need to wipe the nozzle. The more you keep the nozzle clear of drying paint the more professional your finish will turn out.

I had to flip the door over after it dried to get the underside of the geometric slats.

Step 10: Hang up your geometric door

Using a 1×3 as an anchor is my go to for extra stability! Also, the 1×3 is secured into studs due to the hardware not fitting where our studs are.

Certainly you can hang the barn door hardware by yourself, but I hung it crooked due to the length and my short armspand. However, I would recommend having a buddy help you hang the door hardware! Or at least help you measure for hardware placement on the 1×3 anchor board.

After marking where the hardware would go it was super easy! However, be sure to follow the manufacturer instruction and account for all pieces before starting to hang.

TIP: Be sure to use a ratchet wrench to tighten the bolts instead of a standard wrench. Way faster and way easier to install!

pin it for later

SHOPPING LIST :

TOOLS :

Square

Tape Measure

Pencil

Safety Glasses

Ear Protection

Mask

Drill

Miter Saw

DIY Ikea Tarva Dresser Hack

Sander (or Sanding Sponge)

Brad Nailer

KregJig R3 or R4

 or

Wagner Paint Sprayer

Wagner Spray Shelter

 

CUT LIST :

  • 5 – 1X2 @ 18 1/16″ 90-degree cut and 90-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 6 3/4″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 15 3/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 17 3/4″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 24 3/4″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 24 1/2″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 4 – 1X2 @ 24 1/8″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 24 3/8″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 24 1/8″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 39 1/4″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 36 5/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 34 1/2″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 3 – 1X2 @ 9 1/8″ 90-degree cut and 90-degree cut
  • 2 – 1X2 @ 16 3/8″ 90-degree cut and 90-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 13 5/8″ line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 13 1/2″ line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 31 3/4″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 54 5/8″ 90-degree cut and 90-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 7 1/2″ line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 11 1/2″ line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 15 7/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 18 1/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 20 1/4″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 8 – 1X2 @ 22 5/8″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 21 7/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 19 9/16″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 12 1/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 5 – 1X2 @ 18 1/8″ 90-degree cut and 90-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 11 1/4″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 13 3/8″ 90-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 24 3/4″ 40-degree cut and 40-degree cut
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 23 1/8″ 40-degree cut and line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 18 3/4″ 40-degree cut and line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 14 1/2″ 40-degree cut and line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 9 3/4″ 40-degree cut and line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 – 1X2 @ 5 1/2″ 40-degree cut and line up and mark with pencil
  • 1 –  1×3 @ 7′ (door hardware mount)
  • 2 – 1×6 @ 36″ (for extending the door length)

SKILL LEVEL :

Intermediate

PROJECT COST:

$66-$106

 

Let me know if you have any questions about anything! I’m an open book 🙂

For more behind the scenes on all of our DIY and home projects be sure to follow along on instagram. To see all of our inspo and upcoming projects be sure to follow along on pinterest.

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8 thoughts on “DIY Geometric Barn Door”

  1. Also – why does the hardware extend so far out to the left side of the door opening? Is that just the way it came? Do you think it could be cut down? I am trying to fit it into some tight space!

    1. Hi Angel,

      The hardware extends out past the doorway on both sides because I liked how it looked design wise. The hardware is 6′ long and if you have the right tools to cut down metal you can definitely cut it down. You can also opt for smaller size hardware like a 5′ or 5.5′ door hardware.

  2. Hello I absolutely love the color and the design, I was wondering what color did you use as your wall color that goes so well with the green. It looks like a creamy white? Thank you in advance

    Karie

    1. Hi Karie,

      Thank you so much! The bedroom wall colors are Accessible Beige by Sherwin Williams and the bathroom walls are Polar Bear by Behr Paint.

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